Almost every model in the catalogue is sold with one of two motor types, and the choice shapes how it drives, how much maintenance it needs and how much it costs to run. Neither is simply better. Here is how to pick.

How they differ mechanically

A brushed motor uses physical carbon brushes pressing against a commutator to switch current as the armature turns. Simple, cheap, self-contained — and the brushes wear, which is why they eventually need replacing.

A brushless motor does the switching electronically in the ESC. No brushes means no brush wear, less friction, less heat and better efficiency. The cost is a more expensive motor and a more expensive, more particular ESC.

What the numbers mean

• Brushed motors are rated in turns — 27T, 35T, 55T. More turns means more torque and less speed. A 55T is a crawler motor; a 27T is a general-purpose runner.
• Brushless motors are rated in KV — revolutions per volt with no load. A 3300KV motor on 3S spins far faster than a 1900KV on the same pack. Lower KV, more torque; higher KV, more speed.

The two scales run in opposite directions, which catches people out. High turns equals slow; high KV equals fast.

Where brushed still wins

• Crawling and scale work. Smooth, predictable low-speed control matters more than top speed, and a good brushed motor delivers it naturally.
• First models. Gentler power delivery is more forgiving while you learn, and less likely to break drivetrain parts.
• Cost. Cheaper to buy and much cheaper to replace.
• Simplicity. Two wires, no timing, no configuration.

Where brushless wins

• Speed and acceleration. Not marginally — substantially.
• Efficiency. Longer runtime from the same pack, because less energy becomes heat.
• Maintenance. No brushes to replace, no commutator to clean.
• Consistency. Performance holds steady as the pack drains rather than tailing off.

"Brushless ready" — what it actually means

Many models ship brushed but described as brushless ready. That means the chassis, gearbox and battery tray will take a brushless system later. It does not mean the swap is free: you will need a brushless motor and a matching ESC, and often a different pinion.

It is a genuinely useful path — learn on brushed, upgrade when the model no longer keeps up with you — but price the upgrade before assuming it is cheaper than buying brushless from the start. Frequently it is not.

Gearing matters more than people expect

Fitting a powerful brushless motor and leaving the stock gearing is how ESCs and motors get cooked. A larger pinion means more speed and more heat; a smaller one means more acceleration and cooler running.

The rule of thumb: after a run, if the motor is too hot to keep a finger on, gear down. Heat is what kills brushless systems, and it is almost always gearing rather than the motor being at fault.

So which one?

• First model, or crawling: brushed. Cheaper, gentler, easier to live with.
• Bashing, racing, or you already know you want speed: brushless, and gear it conservatively to start.
• Unsure: brushed and brushless-ready. You lose nothing and keep the option open.